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Re: DC Conversion

Reply #15
NICE! will be modding an 87 lt125 to charge an 18ah lead acid. Had aftermarket electric start but i removed the system shortly after the starter fried. I now use the battery for a winch i installed and but have to charge it every night and would like a clean charge setup rather than trickle or mounting a solar panel. Your post was so detailed and inspiring lol thanks much. will post pictures pre/post install.

Re: DC Conversion

Reply #16
You need to run an additional wire out of the harness.  On my trike this was a difficult task because of how tight the grommets were around the factory wires.  I had to fish it up and then snip out grommet material around the factory wires to get the new one to slip through:





Now, on the front end of the machine, you need to sort the factory wiring to accommodate the changes.  On MOST A/C lighting systems the voltage regulator is "T'd" into the lighting coil supply power.  It acts as a shunt to ground whenever the voltage gets above the ~14 VAC.  You do NOT want the new regulator "T'd" into the line, you want the old lighting coil wire hooked only to the input on the reg/rec and then the handlebar mounted switch being fed power from the battery.

Get rid of this:



You also will need a reliable method to hook up the new wires.  I decided for this project to splurge and buy the Trailtech crimp kit.  It includes the same style of factory bullet type sealed connectors and a "stay-con" style crimp tool. 



It's pricey but the results are professional quality:

Click on the pic VVVV You know you want to....


Re: DC Conversion

Reply #17
also just to clarify, once converted, does the remaining (a/c) primary igintion coil and the new (d/c) reg/rec share the frame ground?

Re: DC Conversion

Reply #18
I did and I had no problems with that at all.  The A/C ignition system only uses the ground as reference anyway because all of the high voltage AC stays on the capacitor side.

This is the equipment I went back with.  A ~1.5Ah SLA (a new replacement battery for an emergency light in a business) and the trailtech battery sensing 2 phase regulator/rectifier.



I also decided, very early in, that I did NOT want to chop up either the light harness or the handlebar switch wiring so I got another replacement main wiring harness (the wiring is not the weak link on these machines, the handlebar switch plastic knobs and headlight bulb socket are!) and chopped that up instead.



The wiring diagram is going to look a little different depending on your application but it's basically thus.  Both wires of the lighting coil go into the reg/rec.  The reg/rec has a positive and negative 12VDC output.  The battery and light switch input are hooked to the red wire and ground is hooked to the frame.  In this way, the lighting coil provides the 7-32VAC input to the reg/rec but ONLY 12-14VDC make it to the vehicle equipment (remember, in the factory wiring harness the lighting coil is hooked directly to the handlebar switch and regulator) and to charge the battery.
Click on the pic VVVV You know you want to....


Re: DC Conversion

Reply #19
As you start to finish up tidying up wires, your stuff should start to look like this (never mind the misshapen heat shrink, it wouldn't shrink down small enough to fit that wire tight) with the lighting coil wires tucked nicely into the loom and away from flywheel harm:



Make sure you make new connections in all of the wires where the old harness connected too (but generally, in reverse polarity or in a different size connector so you can't confuse them!) so you can still do maintenance on the machine later.  It's handy to able to unplug the engine from the frame when you get ready to work on things.



Because the exact wiring for your machine is going to be different than mine, there isn't much help I can offer about the routing, mounting, and things.  What I can show is how my mounting turned out on my machine and maybe it will give you some ideas about yours.

Click on the pic VVVV You know you want to....


Re: DC Conversion

Reply #20
I made a tidy little bracket for mine that stuck my battery and reg/rec under the headlight pod above the fender.  In this way it's protected from the elements but accessible.  If you already have a battery on your machine, you probably already have a battery box etc etc.







Click on the pic VVVV You know you want to....


Re: DC Conversion

Reply #21
I should add in the extreme close-up picture of the crimp connector above, I had soldered it.  I tinned all of the wires before I crimped them and then just heated up the solder inside with a little more on the outside to ensure a corrosion free connection for later.  The Trailtech crimp kit is already, straight out of the box, excellent.  I just felt like solder made it that much more solid.  That being said, that level of meticulousness is probably not necessary.
Click on the pic VVVV You know you want to....


Re: DC Conversion

Reply #22
ok great thanks for the info, i will begin the conversion as soon as a i get out of work.

Re: DC Conversion

Reply #23
I got to thinking about it.  I'm not sure what your lighting coil wattage is or what your amperage load is going to be but a 18Ah battery is large for a two pole regulator rectifier to charge back up.

Either way, start a thread in the rebuild section for your machine.
Click on the pic VVVV You know you want to....


 

Re: DC Conversion

Reply #24
ok thanks, finished the build last night. worked out pretty well and I can see what you mean , barely a charge at idle and a nice slow charge w/throttle. The rec/reg I chose for this project was made for a GY6 off of Ebay for about $7 new shipped. 4Pin easy to install. I may replace the coil with a slightly stronger output coil the make up the difference in the near future. No info on the wattage, the bike was a gift in exchange for work many years ago, no documents and the owner had no info on year or model. Based on what I can decipher from the very illegible VIN. it is a 1987 Suzuki. Someone told me it is an LT185 but from what I gather through various wiring diagrams, I believe it to be a surprising LT125. That being said I believe it is an L31 Lighting coil. Either way I will post pics as soon as a can and with start a thread in the rebuild section.